Gitana Winery – Where Vines Entwine with Stories

Amid the rolling hills of Moldova, hidden among ancient limestone galleries, not only grapes ripen, but stories and dreams as well. Gitana Winery 1953 is the creation of a family that has cultivated wine with devotion and craftsmanship for decades. Every bottle carries the spirit of the land – yet it is the family itself that gives the wine its soul.

We spoke with two members of the Dulgher family, Petru and his daughter Lilia, to uncover the essence of the estate. At first sip, one tastes tradition and experience; at the second, an irrepressible determination to stir up the wine world under the name Gitana Winery. Beginning in Zurich, with their new boutique store on Forchstrasse 28.

Petru Dulgher, how do Moldovan wines differ from those well known here from Switzerland, France or Italy?
PD: Moldova has the highest vineyard density in the world and the longest underground limestone galleries, where millions of bottles quietly mature. Vine cultivation here has been documented since 7000 BC. A glass of Gitana wine is not only intertwined with the terroir and history of our land, but also with our family. We own 400 hectares of vineyards that we planted by hand; we know every inch of the land and work every day to ensure that each bottle reflects our character. Foreign occupations, communism and political upheavals claimed many lives – and they also destroyed the vines. Yet we never gave up and replanted again and again … that’s what gives our wine its intensity, for it carries endurance within it. The soils, the protection of the Tigheci forests, the location on the 45th parallel – where many great wineries are found – the proximity to the Black Sea, and the wild flora of the Valul lui Traian region all leave their mark on its flavour.

Lilia Dulgher, you spend a lot of time abroad. How do wine preferences differ between Switzerland, Germany and Japan?
LD: In traditional markets, people seek authenticity; in newer ones like Japan, there’s more of a sense of discovery. Gitana wines stand out for their fruitiness and character, captivating even lovers of classic European styles. Thanks to a harmonious balance of craftsmanship and modern technology, natural fermentation in historic oak barrels, and collaboration with renowned Italian agronomists and oenologists, our wines can hold their own with the best of Europe.

If one of your wines were a person, how would you describe their personality
PD: Some say the name Rară comes from the irregular shape of the grape, but in our language it also means precious. The Rara Neagră is modest, it brings people together and radiates a quiet dignity. Saperavi, originally from Georgia and one of the oldest known varieties, is the noble stranger – speaking another language, yet creating harmony. I believe that’s something we should all relearn today: to carry our own traditions with dignity – and to grant others the same. Both varieties can stand proudly as single varietals, yet they reveal their generosity in a blend – they know how to give others space.

Lilia Dulgher, how do generations of wine drinkers differ – your father’s and your own?
People for whom wine is part of life remain faithful to their traditional tastes. For my father and me, wine is like a member of the family. Many are surprised when we dine out – whether in Romania or Moldova, where Gitana wines appear on nearly every fine restaurant’s wine list – and we still drink our own wines. That doesn’t mean we aren’t curious about what other winemakers produce; but when we’re together, wine deepens the moment. For us, wine is a constant companion, a mirror of our identity – never a passing trend. In that sense, our generations’ tastes differ very little.

Lilia Dulgher, how did growing up with wine shape your life?
LD: I grew up in the city, yet wine was always present. Conversations about vines, harvests and maturation filled our daily lives. My father was the first in Moldova to become the sole owner of a winery after the fall of communism. My life is therefore inextricably bound to wine.

What emotions does the Mănăstirea wine evoke in you?
LD: The Riesling grapes for Mănăstirea CRU grow above a village once called Rohrbach – a German settlement where Riesling was already cultivated long ago. During the Second World War, the community disappeared, leaving behind a ghostly reminder of these dark times. Today this land belongs to Gitana Winery. Planting Riesling again on those same hills – out of respect for those people and because their story echoes that of our ancestors – gives Mănăstirea a special depth for me. Its name comes from a legend: at the foot of the hill, a German monastery is said to have once stood. For me, this wine is like a prayer.

Is there a guiding family philosophy behind your winemaking?
LD: If you don’t intend to do something extraordinary, it’s better not to do it at all. My parents see great nobility in their work – it’s almost a religion for them. We also rely on our close family bond: all major decisions are made together.

The wolf that inspired your Lupi wine seems almost like a family emblem. What does this animal mean to you?
PD: In winter, wolves often find refuge from the cold in our vineyards. The cohesion within their pack reminds us of the close connection between nature, wine and family. Family is the strength of Gitana Winery 1953: my wife Svetlana and I laid the foundations for its success, and our daughters Iuliana and Lilia continue the project – also internationally. LUPI was our first «ambassador wine»: When a Master of Wine noted that Lupi had the depth and balance of a 96-point Parker wine, it marked the start of our international recognition.

In many Moldovan legends, nature plays an almost supernatural role. If your wine had magical powers, what would they be?
LD: Our wine is the result of a synergy between soil, plant, climate and light – shaped by the influences of the Prut River, the Codrii forests and the gentle hills of Moldova. Surrounded by wild herbs such as thyme, St John’s wort and wormwood, which subtly imprint themselves on the grapes, it becomes a wine that unites many elements. So perhaps its superpower would be this: to bring people together.

Gitana Winery 1953 Boutique Store
Forchstrasse 28
8032 Zurich
078 251 15 77 gitanawinery1953.com